Review: This historic pub is an extraordinary must-visit food destination

There is a scene in series four of Peaky Blinders, when Adrien Brody's brilliantly brooding, menacing mobster Luca Changretta warns impeccably cheek-boned anti-hero Tommy Shelby that his "is an organisation....of a different dimension."

It's a superb scene, dripping with atmosphere. And it also works well as a segway into this review, because not only is The Peacock a former favoured haunt of fellow gangsters The Krays, but their food is also of a totally different dimension.

The bar at The Peacock Inn, Chelsworth (Image: Mark Heath)

Every couple of years, if you're lucky, you stumble across an eatery which totally blows you away. The food is flawless, the service superb and the venue unique and memorable in various ways.

In the last few years, in Suffolk, I've had that eureka moment four times - at Pea Porridge and 1921 (both in Bury), at Tuddenham Mill and at The Brewers in Rattlesden, the last time the light bulb flashed for me.

Well, add The Peacock to that notable list. And the reason I started this review with that quote is, as I was about halfway through my main course on Saturday and starting to fret about just how I could do the food justice, that clip popped into my head and played on loop.

Our garden room at The Peacock Inn, Chelsworth (Image: Mark Heath)

Put simply, The Peacock's food - and overall package - is just on a totally different level to anything I've been lucky enough to sample in Suffolk for years.

If you have a 'must-visit' list, tear it up and start a new one which simply reads ' The Peacock, Chelsworth.' It really is that good, that special - I'm excited, friends, that you, too, can discover it for the first time yourselves. And a bit jealous.

But before we get to that food, and the best meal we've had anywhere this year, let's rewind - this is a travel review too, don't forget.

Our shower at The Peacock Inn, Chelsworth (Image: Mark Heath)

We rocked up to The Peacock, a 14th century half-timber grade II listed property in mid-Suffolk, five miles from Lavenham, at about half three last Saturday. First thing to note, given cars weren't a big concern in the 14th century - there is no car park.

There is, however, a rustic parking area directly opposite the pub, plus space at the village hall just down the road.

Once parked up, we checked in and duly inspected our quarters for the night - given we had our faithful hound in tow (or, rather, towing us), we had been allocated a room in the garden (£125 a night). Small but well formed, these are modern spaces with period touches and, in our case, a very pleasant waterfall shower.

Bags dumped, we crossed the pub's garden - which would be lovely in the summer - and headed for our first look at the pub itself.

The garden at The Peacock Inn, Chelsworth (Image: Mark Heath)

The Peacock is quintessentially English in feel, beautiful wooden beams, low ceilings and soft lighting befitting its age but, in a reversal of our room, boasting modern touches throughout.

The bar itself is a beauty, crafted from wood in a manner sympathetic to the original features but with a fresh, stylish feel. We ordered up a couple of glasses of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc (large, obviously - £17 in total) and settled down to soak in our surroundings.

You know how there are some places which just feel right? Cosy, welcoming, different - that was our first impression of The Peacock. I can't lie, the wine may also have helped that vibe.

Right, let's get to the main event - The Peacock's staggering food. The man behind that is head chef Sam Clover, formerly of 1 Lombard Street and Pied a Terre, London's longest-tenured Michelin star restaurant.

The homemade sourdough bread and malt loaf at The Peacock Inn, Chelsworth (Image: Mark Heath)

He's already secured two AA Rosettes for the pub - but I have a feeling that's just the start of what could be achieved here.

We were seated by the Peacock's excellent GM, Jack Butler, whose team throughout were top notch - attentive, friendly and knowledgeable.

First up, and a sign of things to come, was a slice of homemade sourdough and a square of malt loaf, served with butter. Simple things are so often an indicator of quality, and this was great - the sweet malt loaf contrasting really nicely with the savoury, soft and crunchy sourdough.

The mushroom and egg yolk raviolo starter at The Peacock Inn, Chelsworth (Image: Mark Heath)

For starters, Liz opted for the pressed confit duck leg, served with white radish, blackberries, lavender and a honey & duck fat brioche (£9), while I went for the hen of the woods mushroom and egg yolk raviolo, served with a mushroom beurre blanc, comte and nasturtiums (£10). Because I'm greedy and spoiled, I added fresh truffle to the dish for an an extra fiver.

Before we get to the food itself, a few common themes. The dishes all looked beautiful - the sort of food which one feels a bit guilty about cutting into. And, as Jack explained, the ethos of the Peacock is all about celebrating local, seasonal produce, right down to their own kitchen garden. The atmosphere, too, was lovely - it's a relatively small restaurant, maybe 40 covers, and that adds to the cosy, warm feeling.

Ok, the food. My raviolo was superb - fresh pasta, perfectly cooked and packed with earthy mushroom, which was soon coated by that rich, sweet egg yolk. The nasturtiums, hidden beneath the pasta, brought freshness and a hint of pepper, while the truffle added an almost meaty edge to the dish. Absolutely delicious.

The pressed confit duck leg starter at The Peacock Inn, Chelsworth (Image: Liz Heath)

Liz's duck leg, meanwhile, was also great. The pressed leg was dense, richly meaty and worked so well with the sweet, savoury brioche, while the radish, currants and lavender brought tang and crunch to the eating. Again, a cracking plate of food.

What came next was something of a surprise, a sneak peek into the future with a dish which I believe is just about to appear on the menu - wood pigeon pate, duck fat sourdough, cumberland sauce and baby beetroot.

Of all the dishes we enjoyed - and it was flawless food across the evening - I think this might have been my favourite. A gamey, smooth pate - wood pigeon is just coming into season - plus a crunchy, indulgent cube of fried sourdough, earthy beetroot and a beautiful savoury sauce which enhanced the flavour of the pate. Staggering stuff.

The wood pigeon pate with duck fat sourdough at The Peacock Inn, Chelsworth (Image: Liz Heath)

Next up, the main event. I went for the sirloin steak, served with a king oyster mushroom, cep and madeira puree, plus triple cooked chips and a borderlaise sauce (£27), while Liz doubled up on duck and plumped for the roast Gressingham breast, served with rainbow chard, heritage carrots, fermented plum ketchup and a duck leg spring roll (£29).

My steak was a picture, cooked perfectly to medium rare, and ate superbly - especially when slathered in dollops of that borderlaise sauce. I'm afraid, because I lack decorum, I may have dipped a few chips into that too. As with everything else, the mushroom and puree made superb companions.

The sirloin steak main course at The Peacock Inn, Chelsworth (Image: Mark Heath)

Liz's duck, meanwhile, may have been the best-looking dish of the evening. Cooked to a perfect pink, well-rested and superbly rendered, the meat worked well with the sweet carrots, fresh chard and fruity ketchup. The spring roll, served on a separate plate, was a fun addition - slightly spicy and packed with meat, an inventive and clever way of showcasing more of that duck.

The roast duck breast main course at The Peacock Inn, Chelsworth (Image: Liz Heath)

The duck leg spring roll at the Peacock Inn, Chelsworth (Image: Liz Heath)

All that remained, then, were our desserts. I opted for The Peacock's signature glazed lemon tart with Greek yoghurt ice-cream (£9) - if anywhere claims a dish to be 'signature' I will have it out of principle - while Liz ordered the discovery apple & date sticky toffee pudding, with Boxford crab apple and lemon verbena ice cream (also £9).

It will come as no surprise to you by now that these were top notch too. My generously-portioned tart's glaze added crisp and sweetness to a nicely zesty lemon flavour, while the pastry was thin and enjoyably crumbly.

The signature glazed lemon tart at The Peacock Inn, Chelsworth (Image: Liz Heath)

Liz's STP was a joy - light, packed with classic flavours and lifted by the crunch of the apple crisp and the chewy, sticky dates.

All in all, it was an extraordinary meal - by some distance the best we've had this year. Confident, accomplished and classic cooking, with great service, in a beautiful, memorable setting.

It cost around £130 - including a good £39 bottle of Montepulciano - which, while expensive, was very much worth it.

The apple and date sticky toffee pudding dessert at The Peacock Inn, Chelsworth (Image: Liz Heath)

And that was backed up the following morning, with a cracking full English breakfast. You're probably bored of me waxing lyrical by now, so I'll offer you the thoughts of a couple seated near us.

"The best breakfast I've had in years," was the verdict I overheard as we all tucked in. I'd agree.

As I hope you've deduced by now, I'm incredibly excited by The Peacock - that rare blend of food, service, venue and vision. An organisation of a different dimension, you might say.

Don't just take my word for it though. Go and see for yourselves.

The full English breakfast at The Peacock Inn, Chelsworth (Image: Mark Heath)